Get a Jump on Winter: Your Fall Car Care Checklist

Written by Ken Colavito

AutoSkillsRule Monthly Tech Article · October 2026 · Fall Car Care Month

Get a Jump on Winter: Your Fall Car Care Checklist

Winter doesn't break your car. It finds what summer already wore down. Heat drives water out of the battery's electrolyte and bakes wiper rubber, and you don't notice until the first frosty morning.

October is Fall Car Care Month. In New Jersey, that means wet leaves, freeze-thaw cycles, and road salt are on the way. Here are six checks, with the "why" behind each one.

1. Battery: test it before it tests you

Why: Cold slows the chemical reaction inside a battery, so it delivers less power. Cold oil is thick, so the engine needs more power to turn over. A battery weakened by summer heat has no margin left.

Quick vocabulary: the fluid in a standard battery is called electrolyte. It's a mix of water and sulfuric acid, which is the "battery acid" you hear about. Heat evaporates mostly the water. That leaves the acid more concentrated and the battery weaker. Sealed batteries lose less, but they still wear out faster in hot climates.

Find it first. Most batteries sit under the hood. Some are in the trunk or under a seat. If you can't reach it easily, or you have to pull trim to get at it, hand this one to a shop.

  • Safety: Batteries contain acid and give off hydrogen gas. Wear safety glasses and gloves. No sparks, no smoking.

  • Look at the terminals. White or blue-green crust means corrosion.

  • To clean it, mix baking soda with water, scrub with a wire brush, then rinse with a little clean water. Baking soda neutralizes the acid. Keep the mix out of the battery's vent caps. With the engine off, disconnect the negative (black) cable first and reconnect it last. Snug the clamps when you're done.

  • Set a DMM (digital multimeter, a meter that reads volts) to DC volts. Test after the car has sat several hours so the reading isn't skewed by recent driving or charging.

  • Start the engine and test again.

  • Check the age. Three to five years is typical. A voltage reading alone can look fine on a weak battery, so ask a parts store for a load test (it checks how well the battery delivers power, not just voltage).

Reading (engine off, rested): About how charged? What to do: 12.6 V or more: 100%. Fully charged. Nothing needed. About 12.4 V: 75%. Fine, but consider a charge, especially before winter. About 12.2 V50%Weak. Charge it now. About 12.0 V25%Very low. Charge it, then have it load tested.11.8 V or lessNear 0%Discharged. May be damaged.

Reading (engine running): What it means: 13.7–14.7 V. Charging system is working

Battery Voltage Test Table Results:

  • 12.6 V or more (engine off, rested): about 100%; fully charged

  • About 12.4 V: about 75%; fine, but consider a charge before winter

  • About 12.2 V: about 50%; weak, charge it now

  • About 12.0 V: about 25%; very low, charge it and have it load tested

  • 11.8 V or less: near 0%; discharged, may be damaged

  • 13.7–14.7 V (engine running): charging system is working

These are rules of thumb for a standard lead-acid car battery. A low reading after a full charge points to a bad battery or a charging problem. That's when to see a shop.

Watch it: [PASTE SHORT BATTERY-TEST VIDEO LINK HERE] (placeholder until we film our own AutoSkillsRule version)

2. Tires: pressure, tread and age

Why: Tires are your only contact with the road. Pressure, tread depth and age decide how well they grip.

Check pressure cold. "Cold" means the car has sat at least three hours or been driven less than one mile. Driving heats the air inside. As a rule of thumb, warm tires read about 4 psi higher after a short drive or a highway drive, sometimes up to about 6 psi. That rise is normal, so don't let air out of warm tires. Use the number on the door-jamb placard, not the maximum molded on the sidewall.

Temperature matters. As a rule of thumb, tire pressure changes about 1 psi per 10°F. A 30° swing between afternoon and morning can mean about 3 psi. Your TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light must come on when a tire is about 25% below the placard pressure. By then you're already low. Low tires pinch at the sidewalls and wear the inner and outer edges.

Measure tread. Use a tread depth gauge. The penny test is a backup.

Tread depth: What it means2/32 in (about 1.6 mm): Legal minimum in most states. Replace.4/32 in (about 3.2 mm)Start shopping. Wet roads need more.6/32 in (about 4.8 mm): Tire Rack's snow and slush benchmark

Tire Tread Depth Results:

  • 2/32 in (about 1.6 mm): legal minimum in most states; replace

  • 4/32 in (about 3.2 mm): start shopping; wet roads need more

  • 6/32 in (about 4.8 mm): Tire Rack's snow and slush benchmark

Why 6/32 for winter? In snow, a tire packs snow into its grooves and releases it as it rolls. Deep grooves take big bites. Shallow grooves take small ones, and traction drops.

Why tread at all? Water gets squeezed out through the grooves so the rubber stays on the pavement. When water arrives faster than the grooves can clear it, the tire rides up on a film of water. That's hydroplaning, and you lose steering and braking. Race cars run slicks because they don't race in the rain. Your daily driver has to handle everything, so it needs grooves.

Check tire age. Many manufacturers recommend replacement at about six years, regardless of how the tread looks. Storage and climate matter, so check for cracks and distorted sidewalls either way. Run the engine and turn the steering wheel fully to one side. That brings the inner and outer tread into view.

Where's the DOT code? Look low on the sidewall near the rim for the letters "DOT." The last four digits are the date: week, then year. "3526" means week 35 of 2026. A partial code on one side means the full code, with the date, is on the other. Sometimes that's the inner sidewall, so bring a flashlight. It's also a handy check when buying a used car.

The spare. Check it too. A compact temporary spare typically needs about 60 psi. Full-size spares usually match the placard. Read the spare's sidewall and your manual. In my experience, many garages skip the spare because the trunk is full of stuff. Empty the trunk before you bring the car in, so they can reach it.

3. Coolant: pressure is the point

Why: Coolant prevents the engine from boiling over or freezing and carries heat to your cabin.

Never open a hot radiator cap. Think of a pressure cooker. The system runs at about 12–15 psi, and as a rule of thumb each psi raises the boiling point about 3°F. A 50/50 mix at 15 psi can sit around 265°F, well above water's 212°F. Open the cap and the pressure drops instantly, so the coolant flashes to steam and sprays you.

  • Check the level in the overflow tank when the engine is cold.

  • Look for clean color. Rusty or murky means service.

  • Test freeze protection with a tester or strips. A 50/50 mix typically protects to about −34°F. Your manual specifies the coolant type.

  • Squeeze cool hoses. Mushy, brittle, or cracked ones need replacing.

  • Confirm the heater blows warm once the engine is up to temperature.

4. Visibility: wipers, washer fluid and lights

Why: Fall means earlier darkness and wet leaves. Winter adds salt and brine. Leaves cut traction, especially in corners.

  • Run a finger along the wiper rubber. Nicks or stiffness mean replace, typically every 6–12 months. Summer sun dries out the rubber.

  • Wipe the blades with a cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove grime. Don't overdo it. Too much can dry the rubber.

  • Fill the washer tank with winter fluid rated to −20°F or lower. Dried brine can cause blinding glare in low sun. You need to clear it right away.

  • Pop the hood and clear the cowl (the area at the base of the windshield) of leaves and maple "helicopter" seeds. They can clog the cabin air filter and choke airflow.

  • Check every exterior light: low beams, high beams, brake lights (including the center one), turn signals (front and rear), hazards, reverse lights, marker lights, and the license plate light. Have a helper stand outside.

  • No helper? Back up to a storefront window or garage door. Cycle through the lights and watch the reflections.

5. Brakes, belts and oil

Why: Wet leaves and cold pavement stretch stopping distances. Cold starts are where an engine sees the most wear.

  • Brakes: Through the wheel spokes you see only the outside pad. The inside pad needs a mirror. The best check is at your next oil change, since tires should be rotated then too. While the wheels are off, ask the tech to show you the pads and their measurements. New pads are typically 10–12/32 in (about 8–9.5 mm). Many shops recommend replacing at about 3/32 in (about 2.4 mm). Squealing, grinding, a soft pedal, or pulling means a shop visit.

  • Serpentine belt (the long ribbed belt that runs the accessories): look for cracks, fraying, or a glazed shine. Listen for squeal on cold starts.

  • Oil: Park on level ground. Many manuals say to run the engine to warm it up, shut it off, and wait about 15 minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan. Some say check it cold, so read yours. Pull the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it fully, then pull it again. The level should sit between the marks. Keep it full, because some oil burn between changes is normal. Use the grade and interval in your owner's manual.

6. Emergency kit

Why: A breakdown at 25°F is a very different day than one at 75°F.

  • In the trunk: jumper cables or jump pack, flashlight, blanket, gloves, first-aid kit, ice scraper and brush, small shovel, reflective triangles, phone power bank, tire inflator.

  • Within the driver's reach: a seatbelt cutter and window breaker. Keep it in the console or door pocket, not the trunk. You need it fast in a rollover or if you end up off the road.

  • Do you even have a spare? Many new cars don't. Consumer Reports found about 45% of the new cars in its test fleet came without one. AAA has put it nearer 30%. A compressor and sealant won't fix a sidewall puncture. If you drive late at night or take road trips, look into a spare kit. When buying a car, ask whether it has a spare and whether you're comfortable without one.

Quick Checklist

  • Located the battery; shop job if it's hard to reach

  • Terminals cleaned (baking soda and water) and tight

  • Resting voltage tested (12.6 V is full; charge at about 12.4 V or less); load test if 3+ years old

  • Tire pressure checked cold, matched to door-jamb placard

  • Tread measured (6/32 in or more for snow)

  • Tire age and DOT date code checked; no cracks

  • Spare checked (compact spares about 60 psi); trunk emptied before service

  • Coolant level, color, and freeze protection checked, engine cold

  • Hoses squeezed, heater tested

  • Wipers cleaned or replaced; washer fluid winter-rated and full

  • Cowl cleared of leaves and seeds

  • All exterior lights working

  • Brake pads seen at the next tire rotation

  • Belt checked; oil level checked on level ground after the wait in your manual

  • Emergency kit packed; seatbelt cutter within reach

Safety Note

This is general guidance. Follow your owner's manual for fluids, pressures and procedures, and see a qualified technician for repairs.

Sources

Ken Colavito